Having completed the install of the new headliner, mahogany cabin sides and under-deck paneling a few months ago, it was time to finish the interior renovation with the final trim moulding to bring it all together. While taking a break from the interior, I had a chance to look at what had been done and ruminate upon the possibilities of final completed job. If time and money were of no concern, I could easily make this thing look like a gothic church, but those two constraints will help keep the design aspects tastefully unfussy. There were some minor challenges, but I was excited to get started.
My first task was to create some yolk/fiddle pieces to be placed at the ends of the overhead stringers. These would not only cover the gaps between the cabin-sides and the stringers but add some character to otherwise plain lateral transitions. A quick cardboard template was made and transferred to some 1/2″ ply and cut out with the bandsaw. I smoothed the curves with a belt sander and confirmed a good fit over the stringers.
With the 1/2″ ply template, I grabbed the 3/4″ teak piece leftover from the original drop-down table leg and used some double-sided tape to secure the template to the underside of the teak. Then, with a 1/2″ flush cutting bit in the router I carefully trimmed out each of the final pieces. The router made quick work of it! I had just enough teak from the table leg to get the 8 pieces required. Although will no longer be a table leg, it will remain as part of the boat in a new form. There’s gotta be some good Mojo in that, right?
After cutting all 8 of the stringer yolks I switched out the flush-cut bit for a 3/8″ round-over bit and carved off the outside facing edge of each piece. The final step was to kiss them with a belt sander to remove the old varnish. The blonde teak grain smiled back at me as if to say, “Nicely done, Sport!”
Back at the boat I test fitted a few pieces with great anticipation. They were nice and tight! I’ll need to customize each piece a bit depending on the dimensions and angles of each stringer end as planned, but the radii of the inside edges that will hug the stringers are perfect! Maybe watching all those episodes of This Old House as a kid is paying off?
After confirming each of the pieces fit well, and sanding a few spots here and there I began to round of the tops to better match up with the oak battens. I also trimmed the teak stringer faces to allow clearance for the new yolk fiddle pieces.
Moving right along, I coated the new fiddle pieces with some Epifanes varnish and installed them. For the time being, I decided not to affix them with screws or glue until the trim moulding is in place. As they are now, the stringer planks press tightly against them to secure them to the cabin sides – they don’t budge. Also, if i need to make adjustments when the time comes to install the moulding, I’m not married to the current placement.
In addition to the fiddle pieces for the overhead stringers, I fashioned some fiddles for the area where the cabin top drops. Not only will they add some boaty panache, but they will also cover a few boo-boos – much like the fiddles for the overhead stringers achieved. I penciled a nice Bézier curve and used the ban saw at the work to make it happen.
Nearly there, once I determined the proper angles I cut the tops of fiddles so they would fit snuggly in place. Then, using the router I rounded off the the edges and used the belt sander to shave some material off the backs to dial in the correct bias. With everything looking good, it was just a matter of drilling, affixing screws and applying some bungs. I’ll hold off on applying varnish until all the moulding is up.